blue smoke

**4seasons69** · 08-05-2007

when I got the car it didn't smoke. the whole fuel system is still stock. well every once and a while it would smoke a very tiny bit when I started it but after driving it it wouldn't smoke anymore. then after I got her running again my boost was at about 13-14psi and just for the heck of it I wanted to get it around 15psi so I got at a little more than 15psi but still considerably less than 16psi on the boost gauge that was in the car. then I put in an autometer boost gauge (the one that was in the car looked cheap) and the boost was at almost 20psi so I turned it back down. and ever since then the boost will spike up to 20psi and then fall back down to usually between 10-15psi. It could go higher than 20 but my gauge only goes to 20. the mbc looks kinda old so I am assuming that is why it spikes cause I need a new one. so after messing around with it a little bit it still spikes up to 20psi.
so after having it spike upto 20 psi a couple times my car started smoking. for the first week it was more white and now it is more blue. it doesn't always smoke a lot. usually when I start it up I get a big cloud of smoke and then if I give it a little gas it will smoke quite a bit. but then sometimes when I start it I won't get a big cloud of smoke it will be smoking a little bit or so little you can't really tell it is.
When I am driving I can't see it smoke in the mirrors but then when I stop at a red light or to park and the car is idling sometimes i can see it smoke and then if I rev it a little bit it will smoke a lot more. but again it doesn't do this all the time.
so then the other day I had my car idling for a pretty long time while I was adjusting the idle. and where the o2 sensor housing bolts to the turbo was wet and it smelled like burning oil. It wasn't geting driped on you could tell because it was concentrated where the o2 sensor housing meets the turbo and as you got farther away from where they meet it there was less. I took off the lower intercooler pipe and there wasn't any actual oil in it but it felt like there was some residue that felt like it was oil.
I haven't done a compression test because I don't have a tester and none of my friends have one either and I can't afford to take it to a shop right now. I am gona try and get one as soon as I can. I know it's either piston rings, valve seals, or the turbo. from what I have been able to tell you I would like to know what you think it is. sorry the post is so long I was just trying to give you as much info as I could. thanks for any help in advance.

one more thing I have done a ton of searching on multiple forums over the last week and haven't been able to find anything quite like what my car is doing.

bluntedelvis · 08-05-2007

Sound's like boost creep and oil blow-by. What kind of turbo you spooling, and other upgrades to whip? And why in gods green earth havent you upgraded your fuel system yet if your running a bigger turbo than stock. Turn you boost controller as low as it will go, does it still smoke perfussley? Is this really hindering your performance, or does the car go like a great ape but blowing smoke? Could be your valves and internals need some attention. Id do a compression test, boost-leak test, if useing unknown brand or dont know how old boost controller I'd replace along with all lines. Hope this help's, I hate it when my whip runs like shit.

dragonforce · 08-05-2007

From my experience, smoking at idle and initial start suspects bad or worn out valve seals or guides. Bad rings or turbo will smoke more when open throttle. check pcv valve and you can also take oil cap off and see how much blow by you feel.

**4seasons69** · 08-05-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluntedelvis

Sound's like boost creep and oil blow-by. What kind of turbo you spooling, and other upgrades to whip? And why in gods green earth havent you upgraded your fuel system yet if your running a bigger turbo than stock. Turn you boost controller as low as it will go, does it still smoke perfussley? Is this really hindering your performance, or does the car go like a great ape but blowing smoke? Could be your valves and internals need some attention. Id do a compression test, boost-leak test, if useing unknown brand or dont know how old boost controller I'd replace along with all lines. Hope this help's, I hate it when my whip runs like shit.

it is still the stock turbo. 14b. upgrades are obviously a mbc, intake, hacked maf, k&n filter, ported o2sensor housing, 2.5in downpipe, 2.5in testpipe and 2.5in cat-back. stage2 clutch and a lightweight flywheel. after I got everything put on the boost wouldn't go past about 13-14psi where it was set. it didn't start spiking until after I tried puting it up to 15psi and then put it back down. right now I have the boost as low as it will go. and as for the smoke sometimes it will smoke a lot and sometimes pretty much not at all. when I am actually driving I have never seen it smoke it most likely still is but I cant see it. as far as I can tell it has not effected the performance. replacing the boost controller is something that is going to be done soon.

**4seasons69** · 08-05-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by dragonforce

From my experience, smoking at idle and initial start suspects bad or worn out valve seals or guides. Bad rings or turbo will smoke more when open throttle. check pcv valve and you can also take oil cap off and see how much blow by you feel.

here is the the thing sometimes it smokes at initial start up and sometimes it doesn't. and sometimes when it doesn't smoke at initial start up I will drive somewhere and then when i stop it will be smoking a little bit. I don't really know if it smokes under wot it is kinda hard to sit and watch my mirrors for smoke when I am driving at wot. the pcv valve is still basically brand new maybe 1000 miles on it but I will check it. I am still learning about cars what exactly is blow by? I am assuming you would take the oil cap off while the car is running? thanks

b00stcreep21 · 08-05-2007

For starters, I would start by just running wastegate pressure until you figure out what your problem is. Then, start with a compression/leakdown test, because it sounds like there's a good chance you could be pulling that motor out sometime soon

**4seasons69** · 08-05-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by b00stcreep21

For starters, I would start by just running wastegate pressure until you figure out what your problem is. Then, start with a compression/leakdown test, because it sounds like there's a good chance you could be pulling that motor out sometime soon

I think you are right. I just did a compression test. dry 1: 120psi 2:125psi 3: 140psi 4:140psi. wet 1:150psi 2:155psi 3:165psi 4:180psi. so yeah I'm not to happy right now.

b00stcreep21 · 08-05-2007

Doesn't sound TOO bad actually. Service limit I BELIEVE is around 130? Someone correct me if I'm wrong. But if the cylinders have more than a 10% difference, a rebuild is suggested. Do a leakdown test to find out a little more about your dirty insides

**4seasons69** · 08-05-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by b00stcreep21

Doesn't sound TOO bad actually. Service limit I BELIEVE is around 130? Someone correct me if I'm wrong. But if the cylinders have more than a 10% difference, a rebuild is suggested. Do a leakdown test to find out a little more about your dirty insides

It's really bad for me. this thing is my daily driver right now. I don't know how to do a leakdown test. me and my friends could probably rebuild the motor but god only knows if it will actually run and I don't have the funds to take it to a shop and have it rebuilt. so yeah I don't know.

b00stcreep21 · 08-05-2007

Time for a cheap daily driver. You need to get a leakdown tester and an air compressor. You might be able to rent a leakdown tester from a local auto parts store. Otherwise you can have any of the shops that sponser this wonderful site do it for you for a decent price.

Hoffer00 · 08-05-2007

A rebuild is as little as 1000 bucks.

I would hold out until you can afford it.

**4seasons69** · 08-05-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hoffer00

A rebuild is as little as 1000 bucks.

I would hold out until you can afford it.

would that be at a shop?

xveganxcowboyx · 08-05-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by b00stcreep21

Doesn't sound TOO bad actually. Service limit I BELIEVE is around 130? Someone correct me if I'm wrong

123 (or 121 on the sheet I've got right now)

2g 4g63t is 133

b00stcreep21 · 08-05-2007

^^ Thank you. Like I said before, get a leakdown test done before jumping to any conclusions. There's more than one thing that could be burning oil on an engine. Pull off the o2 housing and make sure the turbo's up to snuff

**4seasons69** · 08-05-2007

Quote:

Originally Posted by b00stcreep21

^^ Thank you. Like I said before, get a leakdown test done before jumping to any conclusions. There's more than one thing that could be burning oil on an engine. Pull off the o2 housing and make sure the turbo's up to snuff

Sorry I'm good at jumping to conclusions. I will take the o2 housing off tomorrow and I will try and get in as soon as I can to get a leakdown test. thanks for all the help.

Bunta · 08-06-2007

I had similar issues. Called Chris over at Map. Took the whip down there and got a leak down test. Turns out one of the exhaust valves was bad on number 2. There doing a head job on it right now and also figured out the head was warped.
It's your call rather you want to fix it or not but it's obvious that needs help. My advice is take it in to a shop and get the leak down test done.

**4seasons69** · 08-07-2007

I am gona get a leakdown test done asap. I think the engine wasn't the best when I bought it but driftn1g brought his logger over today and when the boost spikes it knocks a ton so I think that is what did it in.

**4seasons69** · 08-21-2007

Here is a little update if anyone is interested. I finally got up to lse today to have a leakdown test done and they said all I should need is valve seals/a valve job.