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Old 09-16-2006   #1
niterydr
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Tech threads

From time to time I will grab good write-ups and put them in here for people to read/look at that our staff has put up on here and various other boards.

First one will be from me put on this board about intercoolers:


Here are some of my thoughts...

Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonR
Do you guys think Bar & Plate style fmic are better or Tube & Fin? Which manufacturing technique offers better heat exchanging properties? Many factors go into this comparison so lets compare the 2g Greddy tube & fin big fmic to 2g Slowboy bar & plate big fmic. Also keep in mind that the i/c piping design is different. Slowboy has a shorter distance from turbo/fmic/bov/throttle then Greddy because Greddy utilizes the area where stock intercooler used to be, then upper i/c piping goes to throttle. Which one do you believe is better even though both are very good fmic's.
It really depends upon what you consider better. Are you looking for a better cooling charge? less pressure drop? better air penetration (less c/d)?


Tube and Fin cores allow air to pass through them easier. This allows for a cooler charge to make it to the radiator (in a fmic application) which will help aid in the prevention of overheating. The reason they do so, is due to design. Where-in a bar and plate (and a plate-tube and fin core) are more squarish, the tube and fin core almost 'points' outwards, thus piercing the air easier.
A tube and fin core makes a 'V' while the bar and plate make an '[]' shape and the plate-tube and fin makes a 'W' shape. Therefore they rank in order.
1) tube and fin
2) plate-tube and fin
3) bar and plate.
This is in the c/d category as well as cooling running engine factor. Granted how the nose of the car is shaped will change the efficiency and mounting method of the intercooler and radiator greatly. The more direct of a path airflow has to the intercooler, the greater the efficiency. To thick of a core can sometimes 'trap' air from getting through it, as well as to drastic of a mounting angle. These problems can be overcome by allowing for more surface area in a trade off of thickness.

Next section...how the air moves through the intercooler.

The faster the air can get through the intercooler core the better. This pretty much sums up 'pressure drop'. When the air has a hard time dividing up through the runners, pressure drop goes up 10 fold. Plate-tube and fin cores are the best in this situation. They allow the air only once choice, that is to split and enter the core. This is usually based on the manfacture, but mostly the plate-tube and fine cores result in the least amount of pressure drop. Second in this category is the bar and plate. They sometimes make the air do a 90 degee split then enter the tubes, but it usually works out. Lastly the tube and fins are the worst. Air usually has to do a 180 when it doesn't grab a tube right away, bounce back against the endtank, and go back at the tube again. Not the greatest idea when it domes to pressure drop. Manafacture methods can sway these results on way of the other, but this is in general.
So.. when it comes to pressure drop.. Plate-tube and fin #1, followed by bar and plate, then tube and fin in a distant third.

Next we actually talk about cooling.

Bar and plate are by far the best at cooling an air charge. They displace more heat then the other two examples widly available. A few changes within the manafacture method will change the outcome, but overall bar and plate is better at getting rid of heat. A properly made tube and fin core can beat out a plate-tube and fin core as well as a bar and plate, but overall most manafactures don't construct them correctly and when they are, the usually cost quite a bit.

Actually I am getting tired of posting so i'll sum it up.
There is no better one. It really comes down to a multitude of options. Bar and plate cores are good overall if constructed properly. Granted they are the most prone to leaks, if the endtanks aren't attached correctly, but overall they are better. Plate-tube and fins are also awesome cores. Tube and fins can be the best, but usually aren't due to the expense of making them correctly.
I didn't even get into the other very very important aspects of intercooling, like endtank design, fin design and shape (louved vs straight...spacing, amount of fins etc)..piping sizes, coupler use..bend radius's..etc.
Most of the time the only hamper on awesome intercooling is money. That is of course if you don't go insane and use to large of an intercooler.
That being said, a few manafactures out there stand out. Also try to find out of the 'pressure drop' advertised is static or dynamic. Static is best defined as 'flow bench aquired' pressure drop numbers where dynamic actually is closer to real life and takes into effect the entire design of the intercooler, from basis (tube and fin vs bar and plate), to fins..etc..
That being said, here are a few manafactures and what I think of them..
Spearco intecoolers.
They are widely available and are actually good stuff. They have realitivly low pressure drop numbers, have a wide range of cores available and in general are a great option.
Btw they are a high efficent pierce fine design on the inside and out. This results in awesome efficiency in the air charge department as well as low pressure drop.
PTE use a bar and plate style core. they are widely available, very economic, and when paired with good endtanks can flow very well. There core choices aren't as vast as spearco, but they do hold there own.
Those are a few of the companies I have done research into, google does wonders, so does being on ALOT of boards.
other companies worth mentioning:
ARE cooling- aluminum radiator and engineering. Australia based company. From what I have gathered, have awesome intercooling making functions but aren't the most economical choise. They can pretty much custom make any core you need, and are a good choice for the 'budgetless' project.

ARE cooling

The greddy cores are also widely used, and I"ll let others chime in on those, as I have very limited research into them as well as experience.
Also this information only applies to air/air applications, air/water is a completly different ball game where you can get over 100% efficiency if you do it right.
Hope it helps, otherwise enjoy the ramble.

Good day to all.
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Old 04-09-2007   #2
niterydr
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Re: Tech threads

Turbo sizing and results from John at LSE Performance
DSM
motor/setup options:

-2.0 stock motor, small FMIC, pump gas 92, AFC/DSMlink/EMS tuning, walbro 255, FPR, 660cc injectors, exhaust, LIPP o2 housing or similar(no creep)

-2.0 built, race FMIC, cams, SMIM, EMS, twin walbros, A1 research head studs, tubular race header to fit crazy turbo setups.

-2.4 built, race FMIC, cams, SMIC, EMS, etc

Turbo options:

-Evo3 16G the real thing from MHI not ebay ~18psi, hp is somewhere in the 200-260whp range

-PTE or similar 50trim T31 exhaust wheel internal gate, better if you can turn the boost up and have some timing control, so ARP's and DSMlink whould be a plus

-TDO6 20g great pump turbo 50trim might make more power on race gas.

-SC or SCM 61 T350 exhaust wheel, I would say pump gas with the right setup can make good power, but high boost is where this turbo will make the most power, built motor recommended, 2.4 would help for street driving.

-The big 67mm turbos, built motor, EMS, and a lot of other supporting mods, 2.4 would help for the street, with the right setup and exhaust wheel/housing this turbo could make 600whp on a DD with no corrections.

-GT4202, about that and if you need to look at Mitsu style to see if that is the turbo for you, think again.

3S

motor/setup options:

-stock 3.0
-stock rods weisco piston 3.0
-pauter rod weisco piston 3.0
-stock rod weisco or similar 3.5
-pauter or similar rod weisco or similar 3.5

-Tunning a 3/s look at nothing but the AEM EMS, no joke its about the only way to make good power with this car.

-Stock 9b turbos with basic bolt ons, EMS etc made 320awhp, if your 9bs are not bad try other mods that will carry on.

-13g turbos, no point

-15g turbos, this is a good pump gas setup for the 3/s
-tech 17gs are no good
-19ts or WRX turbos, very good pump gas setup with the right supporting mods

-DR series turbos, they work I guess but I will not recommend them to people.

-EVO3 16gs, the hot street setup but can and will make enough to power to start breaking stock engine parts. So a built motor of some kind and if you use ARP head studs use a lot of copper spray and torque the hell out of the studs and do not use them more then 2 times I would say, We have seen the heads lift at just over 600whp with evo3 16gs and the ARPs were torqued to 86lb/ft. On Josh's car they are over 100lb/ft and we were thinking they would hold about 712hp and they kind of held 720.2whp so we were close.

-50trims on paper should make more power then 16gs on race gas, 16g vs 50trim pump for pump the power was realy close on the setups, could make over 700whp with the right setup

-bigger, not to many have tried with good results, 61mm twins is the biggest you can run on a 6 cylender in the street tire class so that could be a good setup for race gas.

When sizing any setup for any car we look at what the car needs to do, what the customer wants the car to do, how much money they can spend, what are the future plans for the car/budget, and what kind of time frame, then we size the setup that will fit the major items the best and go from there. Also on the wastegate setup the waist gate does just what it says, wastes energy, internal is cheaper but you loose spool up and sometimes ability to run realy high boost. Normaly we only try to raise the boost 10 or less psi over waste gate spring pressure. So the external gate should be able to open later and if the waste gate spring is low enough you can turn the boost way down on bigger setups. DSMs I would think internal gates are fine on SC 61s or smaller turbos but if you are looking bigger then that I would look at an external waste gate.

~John
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